Golem Grad is an uninhabited island in Lake Prespa, in the southwest of Macedonia. We have visited Golem Grad twice, in 2007 and in 2016. Both times we chartered a small boat with captain in the village Konsjko. Note that the last 8 km of the road from Stenje to Konjsko are unpaved, and that the bushes on the sides of this narrow dirt-road may scratch your car! The boat trip from Konjsko to Golem Grad takes about 30 minutes and costs about 25 euros. It is best to leave early for Golem Grad, because the waves usually get wilder during the day. You could also try to get a boat at Stenje, then the boat trip probably takes about 90 minutes. Alternatively, you can arrange an organized tour, they are offered in Ohrid.
Golem Grad is part of Galicica National Park and contains rare flora and fauna, so please respect the nature when you visit. Officially, all visits to the island have to be agreed with the administration of the Galicica National Park.
Golem Grad means Big City, but the island is also known as Zmiski Ostrov, meaning Snake Island. And not without reason, because we saw several snakes during our visit. One of the snake species is the Dice Snake and Golem Grad has the largest population of these snakes in Macedonia. Another species is the long-nosed viper. It is reputed to be the most dangerous of the European vipers due to its large size, long fangs and high venom toxicity. Our experienced guide was wearing rubber boots. He had never heard of somebody being bitten on the island, but did know stories of people attacked by snakes on the main land. Be advised not to wear your flip-flops on this trip!
The organized tours advertise with “Pelican Island” or “Bird Island” instead of “Snake Island” for obvious reasons 🙂
Besides the pelicans, many other bird species can be spotted on and around the island. Examples are the Great Cormorant which are so abundant that they color the trees on the cliffs black! Other bird species are for instance the Alpine Swift, Grey Heron, Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican and White Great Cormorant. It’s really recommended to take binoculars and a good camera on this trip!
Although Golem Grad is uninhabited now, people have been living on the island for centuries. Samoil was crowned king on the island in 976. The remains of several churches can be found on the island, as well as the ruins of an old village. If you approach Golem Grad by boat, ask the captain to navigate around the island, so you can really enjoy all its beauty. If you look carefully, you will see the ruins of more buildings on the cliffs.
The two pictures above (the first taken from the water and the second from the island) show the ruins of a 13th century church. Also a 4th century Roman cistern (water reservoir) can be found at this site.
St Peter is a small 14th-century church on Golem Grad. It is the only building on the island that is not in ruins. According to the sign next to the church, also a early christian basilica from the 5th-6th century has been found at this location.
Unfortunately, many of the frescoes in St Peter have been destroyed. Some of them were apparently destroyed deliberately, judged by the names and dates carved into the church walls.
This fresco can be found on the outside of St Peter.
Of the 14th-century church of St Dimitri (St Demetrius) only the ruins remain to be found on the island Golem Grad. A sign at this site states that the others ruins are from an Hellenistic house from the 2nd century BC.
A bit further you can find these ruins of a 4th century Roman house. On our way back by boat to Konjsko, we saw a cave church on the shore of the main land, but we did not visit it. See my Konsjko page for more info.
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