Kichevo

Kichevo (Kicevo) is one of the bigger towns along the main road from Skopje to Ohrid, together with Tetovo and Gostivar. In the 13th and 14th century, during the reign of King Marko, Kicevo was also known as Katin Grad since his sister Katina lived here.

The Monastery of St Bogorodica Precista is dedicated to “The Annunciation of the Holy Virgin” and is also known as “The Most Pure Virgin of Kicevo” or simply as the “Kicevo Monastery”. In earlier times it was called Krninski Monastery after the village Krnino, which was devastated in the 19th century. The Monastery is built on the slopes of mountain Vrvoi, about 12 km from Kicevo. There are no data available about the exact time of construction, but it is thought to date back to the 14th century. The Monastery was destroyed in 1515 along with the Monastery of St Jovan Bigorski when sultan Selim ordered that all monasteries had to be destroyed. It was soon renovated again. In 1558 it was destroyed by a fire and renovated again in 1564, when a new church of stones was built. In 1843 the Monastery burned down again, but the stone church survived. Its interior was badly damaged however, and it was pulled down anyway.

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The present-day Church of St Bogorodica Precista in the monastery was built in 1848. It is a very big and solid building, especially compared to most other churches in Macedonia.

The fresco paintings in the Church of St Bogorodica Precista have been made in two stages. The first stage was performed by zograph Dicho from Tresonche around 1850. Other frescoes were painted nearly 30 years later, probably due to economical and political circumstances. It is assumed that they were painted by the son of Dicho, Avram, in 1880. The fresco paintings in the church are ranked among the richest ensembles painted in Macedonia in the 19th century. Zograph Dicho also painted the iconostasis. The Royal Doors and the Bishop’s throne date from the 16th century.
In a legend about the monastery, an icon of Mary was taken three times to the Monastery of Knezino near Kicevo. Each time the icon returned the same night to the Monastery of St Bogorodica Precista on a ray of light. September 21st, Virgin Mary’s birthday, is the saint-say of the monastery. You can expect a lot of festivities at the monastery on that day.

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This small church is built next to the much bigger Church of St Bogorodica Precista . You could easily miss it.  The small church is dedicated to St Nikola. If it is closed, you can ask for it to be opened by the people of the monastery.

This fountain on the grounds of the Monastery of Kicevo is supposed to have holy water with healing powers. That must explain all the beautiful flowers and plants on the site, which get the same water! People come here to fill plastic bottles to take the holy water home.

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You enter the Monastery courtyard through a high wooden gate. On the place of the old lodging houses which burnt down in 1953, new lodgings were built in 1985, while others were restored in the period 1986-1990. Directions: Take the road from Kicevo to Ohrid, and turn left at the road to Bitola. After a few kilometers you will see a sign for the steep uphill road to the Monastery on the left.

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This church dedicated to Saints Petar and Pavle (Peter and Paul) lies in the center of Kicevo. When we were inside, we got the feeling that the church was quite old, because of the dark colored frescoes. However, we were told that that was due to all the candles that had been burned in the church. The building dates from the 1970’s.

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When we arrived in Kicevo and asked for the Kale (fortress) we were warned that there was nothing to see. Well, that had to be documented, so we walked up the hill above the center until the top, where a WWII Monument was. Indeed, except for a great view over Kicevo, we could not really find the remains of an old Ottoman fortress. Maybe some stone walls were part of an ancient fortress, or the stairs..? Maybe we missed parts of the ruins since we were a bit in a hurry to get to Skopje…The view over Kicevo was worth the walk uphill though…

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This WWII monument is on the hill above the center of Kicevo, where supposedly also the old Ottoman fortress Kicevo Kale used to be.

This museum in the center of Kicevo is dedicated to the liberation of Macedonia in the WWII. Kicevo was the first town in Macedonia that was liberated by the Macedonian Liberation Forces when they defeated the fascists. The building that now houses the museum was the headquarters of the National Liberation Army according to a sign on the building. Unfortunately, the museum was closed when we arrived there in the late afternoon. Opening times: 11.00-16.00 except on Mondays.

Close to Kicevo and a few kilometers from the village Knezino, you can find the Monastery of Knezino. Because its church is dedicated to St George, the monastery is also known as St George’s Monastery.

A church has existed at this place since the first centuries of Christianity. The church was set on fire upon the arrival of the Turks and rebuilt in 1973, but broken down again upon completion of the current Church of St George. The ruins of this earlier church were still visible.

The Monastery is run by one nun, who keeps the grounds very nicely and has her own vegetable garden. She also makes an excellent Rakija, which is sold at the monastery for 500 MKD (about 8 euro). A bit expensive for rakija, but you should see it as a donation to the church 🙂 The nun also keeps two enormous dogs in a shed at the complex. You can not stay in this monastery, according to the nun it is too much work for her to make the beds, wash the sheets etc etc. Directions: The monastery is signposted at a crossing along the road from Ohrid to Gostivar through Kicevo. Take a right turn at this crossing when coming from the direction of Ohrid.